“Large and in Charge” Means Every Body

The English equestrian market is beginning to recognize an underserved segment: the plus-sized rider

By L.A. Berry

Gearing up for show season, many dressage riders eagerly await the spring equestrian catalogs the way gardening enthusiasts look forward to the latest offerings of seeds and plants.

That is, unless you happen to be a larger equestrian. If you are, then you probably already know that most of the tempting new styles won’t come in your size.

On her Facebook group, The English Plus Sized Rider, creator Denise Benkel Burrell recently lamented that a well-known equestrian retailer “disappoints again. Just got the new spring catalog, and only a few items were plus-size in the whole thing.”

“I love how some companies have an XL and it is only a size 12,” the Austinville, Virginia, rider, who switched from hunter/jumpers to dressage 15 years ago, continued. “Come on, equestrian world. Plus-size people need great and beautiful attire, too.”

On Burrell’s Facebook group, members share reviews of plus-sized clothing and tack, ask questions about fit, share sale notices and coupon codes, and—most of all—post photos of themselves with their horses, sharing what they’re wearing at shows or just while having fun with their equine partners.

On the same thread, Canadian rider Lydia Dunn shared that she’d reached out to a Swedish company whose “fantastic” plus-size breeches had become difficult to find. “They sent a very nice letter explaining that there just wasn’t enough of a market, so they discontinued their ‘Curvy’ line,” Dunn posted. “I really have to wonder where the h*** these companies are getting their information that there’s not a market.”

Today’s plus-sized riders are speaking up, challenging manufacturers to offer apparel, boots, and tack that reflect and accommodate their needs in a modern arena. Here’s a look at the fit issues this important market segment faces—and what’s been accomplished thus far.

Fitting Problems and Some Innovative Solutions

“The most common fitting problem for me is breeches that don’t come up high enough,” says Canadian rider Kim Oates, who is training her 17.1-hand Standardbred mare to be “a riding horse, not a racehorse.”

“I wear a 2X or 3X shirt, the same in breeches,” says Oates. “Having a little extra around my midsection makes it difficult to find breeches that come up high enough and fit over my hips properly.”

Shirts, Oates adds, also tend to fall short. “I have a long torso, and because my shoulders are broad shirts aren’t normally cut wide enough, which makes the armpit area uncomfortable and tight.”

Her fitting frustrations inspired Oates to launch her own line of apparel for larger riders, Plus Size Rider Canada. “If you were over a size 16, it was hard to find comfortable, flattering, and stylishly fitting riding clothes,” she says. “I created PSR Canada to pick up where other stores left off. I was frustrated at having to buy men’s clothing to wear riding so I could get a somewhat comfortable fit. I can squeeze into Kerrits 2XL riding tights because they stretch, but should you really have to settle with squeezing?”

When you shop, be aware that manufacturers’ sizing terminology may vary; sizes above 26W may also be referred to as “super” or “extended.” And numeric sizing differs in the US, Canada, the UK, and Europe, among others. For instance, a Canadian or UK 16 converts to a US 14. PSR Canada carries breeches in sizes L-5X, tops in L-5X, and Wide Calf Half-Chaps up to 23″ circumference.

“Our most popular sizing is 2X to 4X,” says Oates. “There is definitely a need for it. Other brands extend sizing up to 2X, but it’s usually a small fit—and really, a 2X is just an XL. It feels self-defeating not to find what you need. Just because you’re over a size 16 doesn’t mean you don’t deserve properly fitting clothes and equipment.”

Sync Equestrian, based in Sterling, Virginia, prides itself as “one of the few brands that carry up to size 3XL,” says founder and CEO Natalia Graf. “We believe this needs to change in our industry. One initiative we take is showcasing different body types on our website and ads so all women see themselves. This is especially important for young riders to see.”

Sync Equestrian is “amazing,” says Burrell. “They make up to 3XL and fit perfectly.” (Hint: If you’ve overheard mention of Venom or Dragons in plus-sized equestrian circles, they’re referring not to a Game of Thrones revival but to some of Sync’s hottest breeches styles, which include pull-on and rhinestone options for schooling or show.)

Burrell also recommends Free Ride Equestrian, which offers XL and XXL full-seat leggings with natural waistlines. After all, a good waistline, to quote the late fashion-industry icon André Leon Talley, is everything.

Graf has seen “a lot of pain points” over proper fit, and the Sync response has included ultra-stretchy waistbands as well as pull-on styles with adjustable drawstrings. “All our materials are stretchy, to conform to the rider while still giving just the right amount of compression and flexibility,” she says.

At Canter Culture Riding Apparel in Dripping Springs, Texas, co-founder Sarah Dahlberg concedes that “floating between a US size 10 and 12 after two kids” doesn’t make her plus-sized in street wear. “But in the riding world, size 12 ‘tops out’ a lot of brands, and the fit and comfort level of breeches I tried were terrible,” she says, with style after style featuring narrower waistbands, mid- to low-rise cuts, or both.

“Defining your waist is the best way to flatter your figure, no matter what shape,” Dahlberg says. Canter Culture “designed a pant with a wide waistband that hits at the natural waistline, then added to the effect by pairing it with a wide belt. Thin belts don’t define the waist the same way. Our waistband is four inches wide, and our belt loops are two inches wide. The wide band gives bonus core support—something you need while you ride.”

The barely year-old company then gambled on a pull-on style with a faux front zip and closure—“because button/zipper pants are more restrictive,” Dahlberg explains. “You’d better fit those pants perfectly or it’s going to be hard to get the button done, the zipper fabric might gape, or, if you had a big meal, maybe you can’t get the button done! There’s just not as much flexibility with a button and zipper, and we wanted pants as comfortable and flexible as possible.”

Canter Culture carries breeches/stretch tights in sizes XS to XL (up to US size 20).

What to Wear When the Heat Is On

The US Equestrian (USEF) dressage attire rule states that, in USEF-licensed/USDF-recognized dressage competitions, “only riders competing in Level 1 dressage competitions or in Opportunity classes are not required to wear a riding jacket or coat” (unless jackets are waived by show management). When temperatures rise, having to don coats and jackets can turn up the heat for riders already striving to present as smooth and sleek a silhouette as possible to the judges.

On the other hand, some larger riders are loath to forego the jacket even in the most tropical conditions because they feel the coat’s drape is more flattering.

What’s the next best option?

“Personally,” says Burrell, “I love Equine Couture shirts. They run large and into 3XL. I also know a new trend is mesh coats and really want to look into them.”

Some years ago, manufacturers discovered that riding jackets containing stretchy mesh fabric offered a cooler and more breathable alternative to traditional fabrics, with some models being constructed entirely of mesh. SmartPak’s Piper label offers a black mesh show coat with the dressage-traditional four-button front (a hidden zipper eliminates gapping), in sizes up to 18. Another option for plus-sized riders: Like its bestselling traditional jacket in black or navy, RJ Classics’ three-button Harmony Plus Mesh Show Coat, in sizes 18W Regular to 24W Regular, is described as delivering an elevated athletic garment while maintaining the tradition of the sport. (RJ Classics currently does not offer its four-button mesh coat, the Melody Mesh, or its Rhapsody Mesh Shadbelly in plus sizes.)

“I like riding jackets with mesh lining,” says Oates. “They keep you cooler because it wicks away moisture and allows air to flow under the jacket to keep you cooler.”

Sync Equestrian’s show shirts “are perforated all over and very breathable,” says Graf. “We don’t have show jackets yet, but it is on the list.”

Color Challenges

After fit and fabric is the pursuit of confidence-building yet appropriate colors for dressage competition. The acceptance of non-white breeches at X has been a big stride forward and a big sigh of relief for many riders. Today, the rules state that “white, light or dark colored breeches or jodhpurs” are permitted in dressage competition—but stay away from “bright colors or patterns.”

“Many women don’t love wearing lighter colors,” Graf notes, and for good reason. It’s not just an unflattering highlight of a particular body part; it’s also that, for every woman under the age of menopause, a Murphy’s Law horse-show moment is always waiting to happen in white breeches.

Graf calls Sync Equestrian’s black-lined white and tan show breeches “super concealing and very flattering on all bodies. The black lining also acts as ‘armor’ and takes all ‘that’ stress away.” The company also offers pink, lavender, and sage pull-on breeches that are lined in black.

“All bodies,” Graf says, “should be able to enjoy and wear lighter colors and feel good in them.”

Calf/Boot Conundrums

“Ah, yes, the plus-size calf. Did you know that anything over sixteen inches is considered a plus-size calf?” asks Oates, whose PSR Chaps start at 16.5 inches and go up to 24. A boot line now in development will also start half an inch wider than the current plus size and will offer options up to 23 inches wide, she says.

“Because my calves are nineteen inches, I have always had to buy boots based on foot size and then take them to a cobbler to have an elastic panel put in so it would stretch to fit my calf,” Oates says. She tried a wide-calf boot from the UK-based company Fuller Fillies (whose website at press time was offline), but its rear accordion panel “eventually stretched too much and became too loose.” And, from a dressage standpoint, “The accordion panel doesn’t look as classy as a clean-cut boot.”

Bex Hayward understands. The plus-size rider from Dorset, England, who shows Iberian horses and competes at Medium Level dressage, is a former triathlete who’s always had a muscular build and who struggles with her weight. In 2019, Hayward founded The Wide Boot Company “when I couldn’t find quality riding boots that would fit my cyclist’s calves.” Her Wide Calf Tall Boots will fit 20.5 inches (plus additional stretch panel), and she also offers show jackets in US sizes 12-20.

“The biggest problem my customer demographic found was that most boots from main brands do not accommodate a more muscular calf,” says Hayward, “so I designed a range of boots using sizing feedback from frustrated riders. Denise [Benkel Burrell] and The English Plus Size Rider have been really helpful over the years and helped with my sizing surveys when I was starting up.”

According to Hayward, riding-boot manufacturers tend to assume that the larger the foot, the taller the rider; but her own sizing feedback suggested that plus-sized and athletically built riders of more modest height may require a larger sole size coupled with a shorter shaft length. The Wide Boot Company now offers eight fit types, and Hayward says that she “can fit most people into something that works well for their physique.”

Another boot-fit issue common to plus-size equestrians is an excessively wide ankle, “which means the boots ‘concertina’ [‘accordion’] down the leg and become very uncomfortable around the ankle,” Hayward says. Her boots’ tailored shape and contoured ankle won The Wide Boot Company a Design Innovation Award from the British Equestrian Trade Association.

Horses: One Size Fits All

Known for promoting body positivity, Muirneen Equestrian carried breeches sizes 28-46 and tops S to 4X. CEO and designer Shelly Watts says she’s taking a different direction in life, and she’s sold her remaining inventory to another woman-owned business, Marengo Equestrian. But Muirneen made its mark in the equestrian world, both for its diversity-welcoming online town halls and its blind (no photos!) catalog model casting call that drew 650 applications, 60% of whom were BIPOC and 50% of whom were curvy or plus-size.

Today, digital spaces like The English Plus Sized Rider are helping plus-size equestrians to stay connected, to support one another, and to give manufacturers a spur nudge to expand their offerings to include riders of all shapes and sizes.

“We believe riding clothes should conform to your body, as opposed to squeezing into something that is uncomfortable and makes someone feel bad about themselves,” Graf says. “We saw a problem with most riding attire on the market not made to fit a variety of body types. It is important to create clothing that makes every woman feel empowered and beautiful in her own skin.”

“How can you focus on your ride and your horse if you feel uncomfortable, restricted, lumpy and dumpy, or embarrassed to wear the athletic apparel designed for your sport?” Dahlberg asks. “Because we are all athletes working our butts off to have the best ride with our horses, and uncomfortable or unflattering apparel is a distraction we just don’t need.”

According to Dahlberg, the Canter Culture website is full of reviews from customers who “for the first time in forever” feel confident in riding clothes. (A Canter Culture XL fits up to size 20, and as its catalog grows, so will its sizes, she says.) Her “all-time favorite review” resonates on a personal level, she says, “as I have dealt with negative body emotions my whole life, as do many women: ‘Thank you for helping me hate my body less.’” 

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